Casa Particulares

Imagine that you are visiting a country for the first time, that there is a way of doing it that allows you into the homes of the locals and that you can do this in large cities and small villages. If you can, then you can imagine the “casa particulares” of Cuba.  Since 1997, these accommodations have been approved by the Cuban government. Not without restrictions and detailed record-keeping, but approved. It has been a life altering program for those who qualify and a delightful treat for the traveler.

Most offer an abundant breakfast for a fee and many will do the same for dinner. This is very useful in the smaller towns as eating establishments can be spotty or non-existent. Food tends toward the unspectacular but you can count on plenty of it.  Fruits are the exception–plentiful but also spectacular.

A different experience is guaranteed when not staying in hotels. The delightful little girl in Trinidad who invited me to join her in watching Tom and Jerry cartoons. Laughter needs no translator. Lovely Rosie in Vinales. When presented with a large ball of dark, unsweetened chocolate from Baracoa, she didn’t know what it was nor what to do with it. Baracoa and its chocolate could have been from Mars. Hot chocolate. Grated on a chicken dish. Shaved on ice cream. Now, Rosie knows. I hope she is enjoying it.

And the amazing lavender room! This in a very recently renovated casa presided over by the hostess extraordinaire, Jackie, who kept apologizing for not speaking English. To us, who spoke little Spanish! In her country! But Baracoa offered more than lavender rooms. There was fantastic coconut sauce for main courses and, of course, the chocolate. Both are local specialties and both deserve praise. The people also deserve praise. I believe they were the very friendliest and most eager to help. This may be a result of isolation as this area has only recently been served by passable roads and few tourists make it this far. Odd since the local legends all circle around Columbus having made his first landing in the “new world” there. No matter, it’s accessible now and worth the visit.

Forget hotels. Go for a more interesting experience and head for the casas. You may even find yourself venturing on to a local bus. But that’s a different tale.