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When I think of Carnival, I think of masks, costumes, parades and lots of drinking. Think Venice, Rio and New Orleans. Peru has its own ideas. Parades, yes, costumes, yes, drinking, yes. What is different is water and plenty of it.

peru3I suppose that shouldn’t come as a surprise considering that the Amazon originates in Peru. At this time of year, the water level on the Amazon is nearing its highest level. Villages along the river are inundated, families move their belongings to the second floor, and step out into boats for their daily chores.

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Higher up, clouds hover over Machu Picchu, opening up to drench the tourists in the afternoon. Water rushing down from the Andes would be an adventurous kayaker’s dream (or nightmare.)

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My first encounter with Carnival was in the town of Iquitos, a town reached only by air or water. There is a road, but that road goes only to another small-town port up river. As I wandered with my camera looking for “happenings,” I spotted a crowd and closed in. There was water all over the streets, people were soaking wet and, I belatedly noticed, covered in mud. Still, I continued into the crowd but soon regretted that move. A group of those wet, mud-covered, and obviously drunk souls headed my way with water buckets and hands full of mud. No plastic bag for the camera, I was stunned to realize that their aim was to add me to the fun. I tried the crossed-hands hex but they kept coming. Finally, a small shriek with elbows up caused them to pause before tossing the bucket of water. Saved from that, I allowed some mud smearing, took a very bad photo with my shaking camera and did a 180. Inaugurated as a part of the group, we waved, I took a better photo and carefully picked my way back to the hotel avoiding all crowds.

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Peru9My next water experience was after the Machu Picchu drenching in the nearby town of Aquas Calientes. Already wet, I was at least prepared with a plastic bag and an umbrella for the sake of the camera. A crowd of young boys were filling buckets from the stream running through the town and tossing them at one another. Of course, that became boring and they started after anyone who dared to come close. At the time, I thought they were just having fun in the rain in a disorganized way.

Peru7Then the parade started, complete with native costumes, clowns and, yes, buckets of water and spray cans of foam. No one was exempt. In the outdoor restaurants, waiters attacked one another dousing any and all who came near. The only way to avoid a soaking was to choose a restaurant on the up side of the hill where the thrower would take the brunt of the water toss. While the targets might have been random, the throwing of buckets of water was clearly an annual event.

Peru8If you find yourself in Peru around Carnival time and you see someone with a plastic bucket, run. Or, grab a bucket and join the party.