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ontheroadwithjp

~ tales of a wanderer

ontheroadwithjp

Tag Archives: Cuba

Beds I have known

08 Monday Apr 2013

Posted by jwpenley in Travel

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Bali, Cuba, Zanzibar

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One thing about traveling is that you rarely know in advance about the bed. This can lead to interesting and, sometimes, sleepless nights. Perhaps not such an issue if you travel the 5 star route but also less interesting. Where is the adventure in a predictably comfy hotel?

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One begins with the “look” of the bed.  Some cultures take great pride in creating clever animals out of your towels or elegant flowers out of your pajamas that you find on your bed when you return from a day of traveling.  Beds can look comfortable and lovely. Looks can be deceiving.

When traveling with a friend, we alternate in choosing the bed so no one gets preferential treatment. For instance, always by the window. It’s a fair process but doesn’t always end up equal. Or, perhaps it does. Two examples, one in Zanzibar the other in Havana.

IMG_9729There are beautiful beaches on the north coast of Zanzibar with primitive huts right on the sand. We found a perfect one with a large window (inadequate screens, so big mosquito problems) looking out on the Indian Ocean. One large bed with beautifully draped requisite netting and one twin with sort of requisite netting. Luck was mine, it was my choice time, so, quite understandably, chose the large bed. These were inelegant beds. Rustic is a kind word. My friend decided to move her bed to a more desirable part of the room with more air. It was quite heavy and help was required but she was satisfied after the move. Perfect. Until she rolled over in the middle of the night and the bed collapsed leaving her on the floor. I owed her one.

It wasn’t until a second trip that I was able to repay. In Cuba, we were fairly even. One would have a thin, hard bed, the other a lumpy one requiring a nestle down into an un-lumpy crevice. I may have been a bit ahead on the luck side with the front room with balcony, two double beds to her twin beds but none of them fell apart.  Payment was due. Then came Havana and the bait and switch apartment, (another story all together) and her turn. A double and a single.  Both nicely made up, but obvious choice.  Left with the single, it didn’t look so bad. Dinner out. Collapse onto the bed. It’s a blow-up bed and too short by several inches. This is not one of the newer, smoother inflatables. This is the one with grids and ridges. It squeaks every time I move.  I move a lot as I roll from ridge to ridge.  Two nights. One cannot drink enough mojitos to become numb to the discomfort. The ultra-short living room sofa is luxury by comparison so that’s where I land. Payment in full and home to the bed I really know.

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Imagine

22 Friday Mar 2013

Posted by jwpenley in Travel

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accommodations, casa particulares, Cuba

IMG_1235Casa Particulares

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Imagine that you are visiting a country for the first time, that there is a way of doing it that allows you into the homes of the locals and that you can do this in large cities and small villages. If you can, then you can imagine the “casa particulares” of Cuba.  Since 1997, these accommodations have been approved by the Cuban government. Not without restrictions and detailed record-keeping, but approved. It has been a life altering program for those who qualify and a delightful treat for the traveler.

IMG_0274Most offer an abundant breakfast for a fee and many will do the same for dinner. This is very useful in the smaller towns as eating establishments can be spotty or non-existent. Food tends toward the unspectacular but you can count on plenty of it.  Fruits are the exception–plentiful but also spectacular.

A different experience is guaranteed when not staying in hotels. The delightful little girl in Trinidad who invited me to join her in watching Tom and Jerry cartoons. Laughter needs no translator. Lovely Rosie in Vinales. When presented with a large ball of dark, unsweetened chocolate from Baracoa, she didn’t know what it was nor what to do with it. Baracoa and its chocolate could have been from Mars. Hot chocolate. Grated on a chicken dish. Shaved on ice cream. Now, Rosie knows. I hope she is enjoying it.

IMG_0543And the amazing lavender room! This in a very recently renovated casa presided over by the hostess extraordinaire, Jackie, who kept apologizing for not speaking English. To us, who spoke little Spanish! In her country! But Baracoa offered more than lavender rooms. There was fantastic coconut sauce for main courses and, of course, the chocolate. Both are local specialties and both deserve praise. The people also deserve praise. I believe they were the very friendliest and most eager to help. This may be a result of isolation as this area has only recently been served by passable roads and few tourists make it this far. Odd since the local legends all circle around Columbus having made his first landing in the “new world” there. No matter, it’s accessible now and worth the visit.

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Forget hotels. Go for a more interesting experience and head for the casas. You may even find yourself venturing on to a local bus. But that’s a different tale.

Speaking of cars

15 Friday Mar 2013

Posted by jwpenley in Travel

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Classic cars, Cuba

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A trip to Cuba is definitely a trip to the ’50’s. It’s the land of an old car lover’s dream. An abundance of American cars such as the ones of my teenage years–Chevys, Fords, Cadillacs, Pontiacs–all the cars that Dad owned and then some. Many are in excellent condition, others smoking monsters. Some are called Chevys or Fords but have so many makeshift parts that they are hardly recognizable. Others are in pristine condition. Most are used as taxis so there are very few two-doors and they are usually convertibles. This is not to say that convertibles are bad. In fact, riding in the back seat is a special way to view Havana.

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IMG_0183This ’57-’58 (I’m taking liberties here) Ford Fairlane was the vehicle of choice to take five people to the Parque Nacional Topes de Collantes for a hike to a stunning waterfall and pool for diving and swimming. Pride of ownership was very much in evidence when we all piled in and asked questions of the driver/owner. He did not shy away from answering the questions nor from asking his own. Being the “senior” member of the group, I got them–“Are you older than this car?” What? As though that was not personal enough–“Do you remember when this car came out?” He received lots of tsk, tsks from the other driver but I gave him his answer. I did refrain from divulging the year of the model of my first car memory. Some secrets should never be told.

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As the Ford was the clear favorite, an exchange of riders was arranged. Off went the Ford.  Not so the remaining what I believe to be a ’40’s Chevy or its assembled parts.  First gear refused to cooperate. Many ground gears and false starts later, the car managed to lurch along the dirt road. Two more episodes of ramming the gear into place got us into Trinidad within walking distance of our casa particulares then the car would go no more. A valiant effort. It was still on the road the following morning.  If you are traveling to Cuba, bring spare parts.

Click click–click click click

04 Monday Mar 2013

Posted by jwpenley in Travel

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Cuba, music, salsa

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The sound heard all over Cuba. It sounds easy. In fact, not at all. Two sticks, one in each hand and held just so. All you have to do is hit one with the other—in rhythm—and therein lies the problem. What a rhythm! The books tell you it’s a straight, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 but it’s really what’s in-between that 1 and 8 that throws the non-Cuban. The only answer is to forget the counting and just FEEL. Sit in a bar with a Cuban and watch the shoulders, they never stop moving while the music plays. This is not toe-tapping music, this is move-your-body music. It’s everywhere and, if you let go, you won’t be able to stand still.

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I don’t know if it is true of every town in Cuba, but every town I visited from Viñales to Baracoa had a cultural center, the heartbeat of every community.

IMG_0429 Usually open all day and late into the evening, the afternoons are best. Evenings get turned over to tourists and the wee hours become discos for the young people. The days belong to the locals and the centers are packed. Rum, cigars and salsa and, before long, you begin to feel!

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Music and dance aren’t all about salsa. There is plenty to satisfy the jazz aficionado, the new fusion sound fan, classical ballet lover. But it’s salsa that spills over into the streets, the town squares, the car radios. It’s salsa that makes you realize you are in Cuba.

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