I have had an issue with steps for a long time. I suspect it began with a climb up the Washington Monument with my brother when one could still climb up the Washington Monument. Half way up, the steps were swimming and I thought that I wouldn’t make it, it was that difficult. Inside the monument there are few windows, the steps just keep going and one begins to wonder if it will ever end. It’s an amazing view at the top but it comes at a cost to those who make the climb. There is a reason it is no longer allowed.

The first time I noticed a real issue was shortly after the monument when I was standing at the top of the stairs to the State Capitol Building in Topeka, Kansas. I looked down and that was it. Fear hit my knees like a knife and I couldn’t move. I had to edge my way over to the handrail and inch down the steps sideways. Silly, I know, but irrational fears usually are. Since that time I have not met a step that didn’t make me pause. It goes with heights, as well, but steps compound.

This step thing becomes a problem when traveling, especially in countries with ancient monuments and non-existent handrails. Going up is just as bad as coming down. I need a handrail, a helping hand, a wall or the ability to go up on all fours. Embarrassing? Absolutely.

My first visit to the Great Wall, I passed on the “stairway to heaven” and just walked the wall. Gondola up, a walk through the woods with very wide, pastoral steps down. Piece of cake but I did miss that not-to-be-missed climb. The next opportunity came again in China at the “hanging wall” in Jiayuguan. A long wall with many steps in the middle of nowhere on a clear and sunny day. What made this wall different was that it had low sides, a veritable hand rail. I could do that! What I didn’t know was that the walls got higher and more precarious as one neared the top. Of course, you can’t know this until you are committed so the choice is to continue or turn around and go down. Terrible options but I chose up. Not for a moment have I regretted that decision. The view was amazing, the wall incredible and my sense of accomplishment a “ta da” moment. After that, what steps could not be conquered?

Back to that Great Wall and that “stairway to heaven” with its 500-700 stairs straight up. This time I was determined, even eager, to make the climb. This is not to say that I did not have moments of “what are you thinking,” but climb it I did, all the way to the top in spite of crumbling walls, missing steps and a wall that got shorter as I neared the top so a little stooping was in order. Never quite on all fours but very close. The ultimate in “ta da.” An unforgettable climb. Once at the top I realized that going down is easy if someone goes down ahead of me. Why did it take me so long? All I need in the future is a willing volunteer. As everyone eventually has to go down, problem solved.

As for the rest of the way down from the Great Wall, this time I took the toboggan. Throwing caution to the proverbial wind, I sailed to the bottom at such speed that the Chinese guides at the sharp corners were yelling at me to slow down. It was a glorious ride and a glorious day.