Bologna, among other things, is a city of towers. In the 12th and 13th centuries, there was a tower building frenzy throughout Italy and Bologna participated fully. Most are remnants of their former selves but two remain as symbols of the city’s medieval glory, Asinelli and Garisenda.

Of the twenty-one documented towers, a few are bell towers, some have clocks and many are truncated–except Asinelli which towers above the city and offers a magnificent view for those willing to climb 498 steps. Piano, piano and even an anziena can make it. Interestingly, there is no discount for the aged. Perhaps this is a deterrent so a rescue squad is not necessary. Whatever your age, go for it. It’s worth the effort.

As for Garisenda, it no longer towers. It’s a symbol due to its proximity to Asinelli and what’s left of it leans. Yes, Bologna has its very own leaning tower. The surprise is that there are not more. Bologna’s river was covered over centuries ago but it still has the capability of creating unstable ground. Heavy tower, unstable ground, lean just a little too far and, voila, a leaning sort-of tower half the height of its neighbor. A photo-op, to be sure.

There is a tour devised by Provencia di Bologna that takes you on the trail of the towers. It’s a delightful way of discovering hidden gems and back alleys. Some of these towers you will see in your every day journeys through the city, others are quite obscure. Most have been incorporated into surrounding buildings and it’s only when you look up that you see the tower. There is a similarity in construction and materials and height. There must have been a level where the towers ceased to be sturdy enough to survive the centuries. Or, perhaps the breaking point was just at the level of cannon balls.

The only towers I didn’t find were three towers that are no longer standing. Supposedly, there is a plaque in an arcade marking the spot where they stood. I could find neither the arcade nor the plaque. Several U-turns and backtracks were unsuccessful so I gave up. A small flaw in an otherwise well plotted walk.

If you happen to be in Bologna in July, start early, stay within the shade of the arcades as much as possible and finish off your adventure with an Aperol spritz. Salute.